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SURFING
I learned how to surf when I
lived in Malibu. We had a slow day at work and we decided to
have a "board meeting". The people I worked with surfed and I
didn't have a board, so I went to the local surf shop and picked
up a 9 foot Model T Longboard, a leash, some wax and a wetsuit
and it was ON! It actually wasn't as difficult as I
thought. but then again who can't surf on a longboard? But the
surf wasn't too high so that helped. That started a bad
habit of ditching work (it was our own company) and surfing, but
so did everyone else in Malibu when the waves were right. It's a
given.
Now the comical part was I only
had a two-seater convertible and to get myself to the beach I had
to put the top down and throw my board in the passenger seat.
It was a pretty funny sight and it got a lot of reaction and thumbs
ups. Then I got the name Malibu Extreme Barbie somehow and it stuck.
Now I live about an hour away
from Oceanside and I must admit I barely ever get to surf anymore.
A. It's too darn cold. I hate being cold. And B. I don't
have the time. When it is warm, I tend to do other things. But
now that I have a truck, I really need to just toss
my board in the bed this summer and just go more often. I am
not claiming to be a great surfer by any means but it is a lot of
fun.
***I sold my longboard and only
surf if I borrow a softie. I just wasn't doing it enough.
Every moment is spent on dirt or the track right now. Plus
thoughts of sharks have been in my head, Aiiiggh!!!
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